“Coffee, c’est la mode. Or at least that’s what it seems to be at the moment, the rage of the day here in Seattle. The label of Seattle as the “Coffee Mecca” has been bestowed upon us and drilled into our minds. It’s like we’ve been programmed to purchase these energy-boosters at excessive daily rates. Fashionable in this urban setting is to walk about flaunting your cup of Joe; this cup gives you the appearance of ambition, sophistication, and flair; it is an accessory to one’s wardrobe. This is especially true for young-career driven women and men too. This cup can enhance one’s image because the thought of caffeine makes one think of the individual consuming this beverage as a hard-working, sleep deprived soldier in today’s society. A lack of sleep is a sign of power and hard work, dedication, success, and ambition to one’s career and work; and by drinking coffee, it is a sign of the need to heal the sleep-deprivation of the hard worker from their arduous work schedule, to boost their more awake-state for the individual to keep working. So, why not add a caramel macchiatto to your everyday wardrobe?– Sena”

I recently came across this critique of speciality coffee’s role in the lives of real people. I wonder if Sena is right in suggesting that the primary purpose of specialty coffee is to provide a caffeine jolt and a fashion statement for urban careerists? Is there any truth to her observations? Or should these ideas be dismissed as a wild misinterpretation of what is going on in the industry? When I’ve discussed these views with others inside and outside the coffee trade the responses have usually focused on the role of work and career in modern living, specifically the lack of balance in this area. Not coffee. Most people seem to think that coffee plays only a small part in this equation and maybe none at all. Would getting rid of coffee bring balance and perspective to people’s lives if they are determined to lock themselves in a cycle of earning and spending that enslaves them to a job or lifestyle? Clearly, there is a larger cultural question presented in Sena’s critique that focuses on many features of our society’s landscape, including consumerism and the inflated material expectations of individuals. But what about the coffee? . . .

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Pulitzer Prize winning journalist, Tom Knudson, published an important story recently in the Sacramento Bee called “Promises and Poverty”. This story highlights the inconsistency between the claims made by coffee companies operating in the coffee growing regions of Ethiopia and what is in fact really going on there. The story focuses on Starbucks’ social mission, but the discoveries and lessons probably apply to almost everyone purchasing green coffee in poor countries.

For some people, “Promises and Poverty” could serve as an “I told you so” about Big Green, and perhaps even feed cynicism around corporations like this. However, the story also speaks to an issue that goes far beyond the intentions of any single company, even one as big and influential as Starbucks. This reading of the story highlights the difficulty large organizations seem to have deploying aid resources effectively. In some cases, their efforts to improve economic conditions can actually lead to serious environmental damage and real cultural harm. “Promises and Poverty” should raise red flags and lead to discussion around whether aid programs are best adminstered by large corporations, governments, or NGO’s. . . or if there is a better way.

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Within the walls and halls of specific cafes around Seattle, around the country, and even Canada, something verging on a Revolution in mind and action is occurring. This revolution is based on paying attention to the finer details of coffee preparation, but it also includes pouring time, energy and resources into developing awareness and formulating action around social and cultural issues–issues that we might ordinarily think go beyond the role of the traditional coffee house. Developments in this direction are happening with remarkable intensity, and cafes focused on this are beginning to show up everywhere, while some old favorites are transcending their previous practices to emerge anew. Its not just those of us who love great coffee who stand to benefit either. It is the whole world. The coffee individualists who carry the banner for this new movement are usually well-informed. In addition to cafe operators, their number includes baristas, equipment developers, and commentators. The most active of these are totally engaged. They are pushing the boundaries at all levels, including the standard ones around coffee preparation, equipment and new culinary experiences around coffee. But there is even more to it than this. Read the rest of this entry »